Withernot! The Rugby Shirt’s Unlikely Legacy

From rock climbers to Ivy League students, skaters to streetwear icons.

An opportunity arose recently to showcase a brand I’ve admired for quite some time. I’ve seen folks from the US to Asia wear it well, and now’s my chance to share it with you too.

Withernot first came to my attention the same way a lot of great brands do—through Instagram. My first impression? Their dedication to making one thing, but making one thing really well. So many brands oversaturate themselves by trying to do too much at once, whereas Withernot has found something from the past, recreated it, but still—just by looking at it—you can tell it’s uniquely theirs.

They’re not available in the UK (yet), but they’ve got a ton of potential to grow, and this blog covers exactly why I think they should.

I was lucky enough to receive the Ulysses rugby shirt from them—the one that started it all for the brand. Deep royal blue with bold red and gold stripes cutting across the middle, it’s striking without being loud. The colours feel purposeful, not just thrown together for the sake of being different. It’s also rooted in real history—this design is based on the rugby shirt legendary rock climber Jimmy Dunn wore while making first ascents in the 1970s.

What sets Withernot apart is its direct connection to heritage. This isn’t a brand simply throwing together colours and calling it a rugby shirt. It’s not about chasing trends or mimicking what’s already out there. Instead, Withernot draws from a very real, functional history—one deeply tied to the rock climbers of 1970s California.

During that era, climbers needed gear that could withstand the brutal demands of the sport. Traditional climbing apparel wasn’t always up to the task, but rugby shirts—originally designed for the rough-and-tumble of the pitch—proved perfect for the job. The heavyweight knit fabric held up against scrapes, the twill collar prevented rope burn, and the rubber buttons wouldn’t crack under pressure. It was a purely practical choice that, over time, became part of the culture.

Knots that wither not!

Withernot taps into that history beautifully. Their imagery captures the spirit of the original climbing rugbies while introducing fresh, bold stripe patterns that feel both classic and modern.

Beyond the design, what stands out most to me is the fit. This doesn’t feel like just another rugby shirt, and that’s largely because of how it fits. I’ve had so many others where—yes, they’re great—but they’re not like this. This feels more authentic. Most options either run too slim or require sizing up, which throws off the proportions entirely. Withernot gets it right, delivering the proper oversized silhouette you’d expect from a classic rugby.

There’s enough room to move without feeling bulky, striking that perfect balance between a long-sleeved t-shirt and a lightweight sweatshirt. It layers effortlessly, whether tucked into jeans or chinos, thrown under a Harrington jacket, or simply worn on its own—letting the bold stripes do all the talking.

The rugby shirt’s journey from the playing field to everyday style didn’t stop with climbers—it had already found its way onto American college campuses decades earlier. By the mid-20th century, Ivy League students had a habit of borrowing elements of British sportswear, from cricket sweaters to Barbour jackets, and the rugby shirt was no exception.

Inspired by the uniforms worn in England’s schoolboy and university matches, American brands began producing their own versions, often in collegiate colours. Unlike the structured tailoring of traditional Ivy style, the rugby shirt had a casual, athletic appeal that fit right in with the relaxed weekend wardrobes of students at Princeton, Yale, and Harvard. Paired with chinos, loafers, and even tweed jackets, it became a symbol of effortless, sporty cool.

That mix of British heritage and American reinterpretation is what gave the rugby shirt its staying power. While it may have started as functional sportswear, by the ‘70s and ‘80s, it had become a staple in both preppy fashion and rugged outdoor pursuits—two seemingly opposite worlds that, somehow, the rugby shirt managed to bridge perfectly.

By the 1980s, rugby shirts had found an unlikely new home in skateboarding. Skaters were drawn to them for the same reasons rock climbers and athletes were—the heavyweight fabric could take a beating, and the relaxed fit allowed for easy movement. Brands like Polo and Tommy Hilfiger started incorporating bold, collegiate-style rugbies into their collections, which only added to their appeal in the streetwear scene.

As skate culture blended with hip-hop and prep throughout the ‘90s, the rugby shirt became a staple of that crossover—seen on everyone from East Coast skaters to rappers in oversized, colour-blocked designs. Today, that influence still lingers, with brands tapping into the nostalgia of those eras while bringing the rugby shirt into modern menswear.

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I’m always cold. Honestly, I can’t even remember the last time I saw my arms.

That’s why a rugby shirt is the perfect year-round piece for me—especially in spring. It’s substantial enough to keep the chill off but breathable enough to wear when the sun makes an appearance.

The best menswear pieces have an instinctive ease to them—something you can throw on without thinking and know it’ll work. The rugby shirt is one of those. It’s survived decades of subcultures, from climbers to college kids, from skaters to streetwear icons. And Withernot? They understand why. They’re not just making rugby shirts; they’re carrying on a legacy.

My hope is that one day, more people will be wearing Withernot. Maybe not everyone—but just enough for those in the know to recognise it for what it is. That feeling of knowing you’re wearing something special, something that’s been thoughtfully made, is what draws me to certain brands.

There’s a real urgency in menswear today—brands rushing to get things made, out the door, and onto shelves. But the best pieces aren’t just about production; they’re about research, understanding why something worked in the first place, and then making it even better. That’s exactly what Withernot has done.

I’m looking forward to seeing the brand grow—bigger, better, and hopefully available to more of us. If you’re lucky enough to be in the US, I’d highly recommend picking one up now. For the rest of the world? Be patient. I’m sure good things are on the way.

Go and check them out.

A huge thank you to the good people behind Withernot for making this article possible.