Wardrobe essentials. Naturally, depending on who you ask, you’ll get a somewhat different answer.
While those of us into a particular style might name similar items, ultimately, opinions will always differ. But what makes these pieces essential? And what does essential even mean?
I’m not here to tell you what should be essential to you. Instead, I’ll share what’s essential to me and, more importantly, why.
For me, an essential item falls into a number of different categories, which I’ll break down as we go: style, versatility, durability, and, perhaps most tellingly, how often I actually wear it.
I’m a big believer in the mantra: if you like it, wear it. It’s easy to fall into the trap of dressing for others, and sometimes, I’d argue, that’s unavoidable—whether intentional or not. But the key is to dress for yourself, not for anyone else. Wear what makes you happy.
Style can reflect so many things—it could be a memory, something you appreciate, or simply what makes you feel good. Looking good is always an added bonus, but it’s secondary to feeling confident and comfortable in your own clothes. Others’ opinions on what doesn’t look good are, well, just that—their opinions. And while it’s hard to let go of them, they really have no bearing on your personal style.
An important point I’ve learned through my years working in menswear is that size isn’t everything. What I mean by that is: try not to get too hung up on the labeled size of a garment. The letter on a tag is just a guide for what fits you in a particular brand. Brands measure their garments differently, and many high-street retailers often use vanity sizing, where the labeled size might show a smaller waist than you actually are.
When you’re in the hands of a good store assistant, they’ll explain this to you, and they’ll know that size really doesn’t define fit or style. We all come in different shapes and sizes, and while it can feel awkward to talk about your size, if someone makes you feel self-conscious about it, that says more about them than it does about you.
Before I get too carried away, let me dive into what style means to me. I’d like to think my taste is always evolving. My wardrobe may never feel “complete,” but it has core pieces I return to time and time again—items that just work in so many different ways.
To kick things off, let’s look at a new addition to my wardrobe. While I know I’m slightly bending my earlier rule about how much I’ve worn something before deeming it essential, I have no doubt these won’t end up buried at the back of my wardrobe.
Studio D’Artisan SD-108 Relaxed Taper Jeans
I’ve always admired Studio D’Artisan. They’re a premium Japanese denim brand with a rich heritage. What sets them apart isn’t just the quality of their denim but their historical significance.
As one of the Osaka 5—a legendary group of Japanese brands including Evisu, Full Count, Denime, and Warehouse—they revolutionized premium denim in the late ’80s and early ’90s. Inspired by vintage American workwear and fused with meticulous Japanese craftsmanship, they’ve created something truly unique.
That heritage is what makes Studio D’Artisan so easy to admire, and why these jeans feel like such a solid addition to my wardrobe.
The SD-108s feature a relaxed taper—a fit I didn’t initially plan for in my next pair of jeans. But what convinced me was their versatility. I love dressing denim up—not necessarily formal, but on the smarter end of the spectrum. A shirt and tie paired with jeans is a look I always come back to.
The relaxed taper complements this aesthetic perfectly, creating a silhouette that’s sharp yet comfortable. These jeans fit seamlessly into my wardrobe and the style I aim to achieve.
Sebago Campsides Ranger
Finding a pair of shoes that balance practicality and smartness can be tricky. That’s why I keep reaching for my Sebago Campsides. For the past six months, they’ve been my go-to shoes, accompanying me everywhere.
I wrote an in-depth review of these when I first got them, and they’ve only improved with time. They’ve aged beautifully, held their shape, and grown even more comfortable. In fact, they’re one of the comfiest pairs I own.
Shoes, perhaps more than any other wardrobe item, are deeply personal. As the saying goes, “You can tell a lot about a person by their shoes.” They’re in constant contact with the ground, and the way we walk—and where we walk—determines what works for each of us.
That’s why the Sebago Campsides suit me so well. They have the smartness of a loafer but with the durability to navigate Manchester’s often rainy streets. They’re a versatile choice for both casual and slightly dressier outfits.
Kamakura OCBD Shirts
I try not to mention the same brands repeatedly, but Kamakura shirts deserve the praise. When it comes to fit, fabric, and quality, their OCBDs (Oxford Cloth Button-Downs) hit the mark every time. They’ve become a staple for me and are the kind of piece I know I’ll always go back to.
The beauty of these three pieces—Studio D’Artisan SD-108 jeans, Sebago Campsides, and Kamakura OCBD shirts—is their inherent versatility. They seamlessly complement each other, offering a cohesive foundation for various outfits. For instance, pairing the SD-108 jeans with the Kamakura shirt and Sebago shoes creates a balanced ensemble suitable for numerous occasions.
The true hallmark of a wardrobe essential lies in its adaptability and longevity. These items not only integrate effortlessly into different looks but also stand the test of time, both in durability and style. Investing in such quality pieces ensures they remain relevant and reliable for years to come.
It’s worth noting that while these items may come with a premium price tag, their value is evident in their craftsmanship and enduring appeal. Take Japanese denim, for example. Brands like Studio D’Artisan utilize traditional techniques and vintage machinery, some dating back to the 1950s, to produce denim of exceptional quality. This commitment to time-honored methods results in garments that are not only durable but also imbued with a unique character.
In essence, investing in well-crafted essentials pays dividends in the long run, offering both versatility in styling and longevity in wear.
Of course, I won’t list everything here—I’d end up repeating myself from previous posts. But a few more essentials deserve a quick mention. My J. Press Shaggy Dogs are the ultimate Ivy League sweaters, Ivy Ellis socks always add the perfect finishing touch, and my Buzz Rickson or McCoy sweatshirts are always a go to staple. These pieces all earn their place because I wear them constantly—and isn’t that what makes something essential?
Sebago Campsides are massively underrated in my ‘umble. Dress up, dress down, very durable, mature nicely. And cover a wide range of Ivy and Ivy-adjacent styles.
As for other staples, as you suggest, a good navy sweatshirt/jumper will be your friend on many days.
SDA have been my go to brand for many years. Their core 15oz denim is a thing of beauty that ages so well. I'm surprised you went 108, after wearing it for a few years now it feels a little too tapered. Their new SD100 fit seems to bridge the gap between their heritage fits and modern tapered.
Like you a massive fan of Kamakura, never worn it untucked tthough.The button placement /6 button placket leans toward tucked, I'll give it a bash though!
Great blog, keep it coming!