The Ever-Fluctuating Wardrobe

Recent favourites, from madras shirts to moccasins.

So here we go, more additions to the ever-fluctuating wardrobe. This edition features some really nice stuff. I was bound to say that anyway, wasn’t I? But genuinely, these are some of my favourite new additions I’ve picked up recently.

Sugar Cane India Madras Check Patchwork Button Down Shirt

I talk about the Sugar Cane 1947 cut jeans all the time. They’re probably my favourite jeans: straight fit, high rise, based on a 1947 Levi’s 501. But while I’ve always admired Sugar Cane’s clothing, I’d admittedly only owned the jeans up until now. This is my first actual garment from them, and it’s fantastic.

I’ve wanted one of these mad madras shirts for years. I love the whole idea behind them. Originally, factories would use surplus madras fabric, stitching different pieces together to create one shirt. What I really like about this one is that Sugar Cane could’ve easily just printed the patchwork effect onto fabric, but they’ve actually used separate madras fabric panels stitched together throughout. Even the way the tartan lines up across the panels is seriously impressive. The craftsmanship on it is amazing.

The construction is what really surprised me as well. The side seams and armholes are finished with sturdy double-needle stitching, which gives the shirt a much more solid feel than a lot of lightweight summer shirting. It still has that soft, slightly uneven texture you want from proper madras, but it doesn’t feel delicate or flimsy at all.

Blue Refabric Wide Baker Pants Sulfur-Dyed Back Satin

I picked these up from Haku Clothing in Osaka, and they’ve quickly become one of the standout pieces I’ve got going from them. I recently took them to the tailor to get the length just right, and they’ve been in constant rotation ever since.

The fit is inspired by the early French military M47 cargo trousers, with a wide straight silhouette that sits comfortably and gives plenty of movement without looking overly baggy. The fabric is brilliant too: a reproduction of 1950s U.S. military back satin finished with a sulphur dye treatment that gives them that naturally faded, worn-in look straight away.

These really lean into the Japanese Amekaji side of things, which I love mixing with Ivy. They’re incredibly versatile as well. If you look through Japanese magazines like 2nd, you’ll see people styling similar trousers with everything from sweatshirts and workwear to the classic navy blazer and tie combination. That mix of military, workwear and Ivy just really works. Most importantly, they’re ridiculously comfortable and easy to wear in loads of different ways.

Ivy Ellis Made in Japan Boro Patchwork Socks

These were another pick-up I was really excited about, mainly because they combine two things I’ve always loved: Japanese craftsmanship and traditional patchwork textiles. Ivy Ellis usually produces everything in the UK, but these are the first pairs made in Japan, produced in a small family-run factory in Nara that’s been making socks since the 1950s.

The design takes inspiration from traditional Japanese Boro patchwork. Originally, Boro came from repairing and reinforcing worn-out garments by layering scraps of fabric over damaged areas and stitching them together. Over time, those repairs became part of the character of the garment itself. You see it a lot in old Japanese workwear and indigo pieces, where the fading and patching almost ends up looking better than the original fabric.

What I like about these is that they don’t feel over-designed or gimmicky. The patchwork effect has a really natural look to it, and because of the way the patterns and fading work, every pair feels slightly different. They’ve also just got that proper substantial feel you want from a good sock: soft, comfortable and well made without feeling overly delicate.

They’re the sort of thing that works perfectly with loafers, deck shoes or even just beat-up trainers. A small detail, but one that adds a lot to an outfit.

Popeye Made in USA Catalogue 2026: Amekaji Issue

This next one is currently on pre-order from Rare Mags, which is easily one of my favourite places for Japanese magazines and books. I already know this is going to be something I won’t stop talking about once it arrives.

I’ve always loved the Japanese tradition of catalogues and magazines. Nobody really does them quite like Japan. Even when they’re covering classic American clothing, they somehow manage to present it in a way that feels fresh and incredibly considered. This new Popeye issue looks like it basically sums up everything I love about menswear in one place.

The issue celebrates 50 years of Amekaji, tracing how classic American casual clothing first made its way into Japan during the 1970s and eventually evolved into its own thing entirely. What started with Ivy, military surplus, workwear and outdoor clothing slowly became part of Japanese youth culture through places like Shibuya and Ura-Harajuku, with each generation interpreting it differently.

That’s always been what I find most interesting about Japanese takes on American clothing. It’s not just imitation. There’s a real appreciation for the history, construction and styling behind everything, whether it’s a faded sweatshirt, military chinos or a navy blazer. Judging by the previews alone, this looks exactly like the sort of thing I’ll spend hours going through.

Boltey Kenya Jacket

I’ve had a few pieces from Boltey now, and one of the things I always like about their designs is the way they use fabric. This jacket is no exception. The Kenya Jacket is their take on the classic Sahariana style jacket, but it doesn’t feel overly costume-like or vintage reproduction in the way some safari jackets can.

What really makes it work is the fabric. It uses a lightweight cotton from British Millerain with a soft, natural feel but a water-resistant finish, so it’s incredibly easy to throw on day to day. It’s fully unlined as well, which makes it ideal for spring and travelling without feeling heavy or restrictive.

The details are brilliant too. You’ve got the classic bellows pockets, shoulder epaulettes and action back, which gives it a bit more movement and shape when wearing it. It’s the sort of jacket that feels practical without losing any character.

What I like most though is how easily it fits into my wardrobe. I wear it a lot with denim, and honestly it fills a similar role to an M-65 for me. It’s one of those pieces you can just throw on over almost anything and it works. Relaxed, comfortable and really easy to style without having to overthink it.

Arrow Moccasins Marblehead Lug Boat Shoe in Sand Suede

I’m a big fan of moccasin-style footwear in general. I wear everything from heavier commando sole versions to the more traditional deck shoe styles, so these immediately stood out to me.

I recently did some work with The Great Divide, who are relaunching Arrow Moccasin, and through that I ended up trying a number of different styles from the brand. This pair was probably the one that stuck with me the most. I’ll share more from the project soon, but these have genuinely become a favourite.

Arrow Moccasin was founded in Massachusetts in 1951 and built its reputation on hand-made moccasins rooted in traditional North American footwear construction. Nearly 75 years on, the brand is still known for its heavy leathers, handsewn details and proper New England character, and you can really feel that in these.

What I like about the Marblehead Lug Boat Shoe is that it takes the familiar deck shoe shape but gives it a bit more weight and versatility through the lug sole. The sand suede also makes them incredibly easy to wear. They work just as well with fatigues or denim as they do with chinos and a blazer, which is probably why I’ve worn them so much already.

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So that’s a look at some of my favourite additions at the moment. Hopefully there’s something in there that catches your eye. There are definitely a few brands here that were completely new to me, and some that I think are well worth checking out if you’re into this sort of thing.

I’d genuinely recommend all of these for different reasons, whether it’s the craftsmanship, the history behind them or just how easy they are to wear day to day.

What’s new to you at the moment? Let me know in the comments below.