The Button-down Edit

Essential Button-Downs for Every Wardrobe

Over all the different issues of Easy On The Ivy, I’ve done plenty of deep dives and longer pieces, but sometimes you can’t beat a good old list. Just straightforward recommendations. Some names you’ll already know well, others maybe less so.

When I was thinking about what to focus on, I looked at what I own the most of, and it’s easily button-down shirts. Oxford cloth, corduroy, denim. They make up a big part of how I dress day to day.

So I thought I’d run through some of my favourite brands. Some I own, some I don’t, but all feel worth talking about. And without mentioning the obvious ones, of course. Brooks Brothers and Ralph Lauren have been covered plenty already. This felt like a good chance to look a bit wider.

Here they are, in no particular order.

J Press - Made In USA Flap Pocket Oxford

The flap pocket is something of a signature for J. Press. They make plenty of other shirts, of course, but these are the ones I’m always drawn to. These particular ones are made in the USA, and the quality is exactly what you would expect.

They come in a classic fit, which wears well without feeling oversized. A small detail I really like is the label. J. Press has gone back to their old design, which now includes a nod to the Tokyo branch. It is a subtle touch that shows attention to heritage without being over the top.

Kamakura – Vintage Ivy Button Down Oxford

Kamakura’s Vintage Ivy shirts are made in collaboration with Graham Marsh, the author of Black Ivy. Regular readers will know I am a big fan of classic Ivy-style shirts. Kamakura gets all the details right that many makers either forget or overlook, and these shirts are designed by someone who really knows their craft.

The shirts are Japanese-made, and the brand produces a range of options each year, often exploring different themes. This year they had some jazz-inspired designs, but this one is just a classic university-style Oxford cloth button-down. I picked it up from their flagship store in Kamakura, which is a really cool place to visit.

Keaton Chase long Sleeve Oxford Popover

Keaton Chase is one of those brands with an interesting story. It originally started in the USA, and now, as I mentioned in a previous issue when I talked about Felco, it is a great example of Japanese makers preserving and refining an American style. They keep the single-needle stitching alive, which is one of the signature details of traditional American button-downs. In an age where efficiency often comes first, Keaton Chase continues to spend the time and care to make each shirt properly.

I have one of their long-sleeve, classic-fit popovers in beige. It is really well-made, and I like that it is not a pure white shirt. Having that subtle variation makes an outfit feel a little more interesting than just wearing a standard white button-down.

Wythe Oxford Cloth Button Down

Wythe is a New York-based menswear brand founded by Peter Middleton, who previously worked as a textile designer at Ralph Lauren, developing expertise in fabrics and heritage menswear. What I really like about this brand is how it carries on that Western Ivy look I’ve mentioned before. It digs into the Americana side of Ivy without being a pure Ivy brand, and you can see the influences clearly.

The fit is breezy and classic, exactly how shirts should be, not slim, and they always look great. I’ve never actually owned one, but this evergreen striped button-down has been on my radar for a long time. You can tell it comes from someone genuinely passionate about design, inspired by people like Ralph Lauren.

The Real McCoys- Joe McCoy Button Down

A good shirt should look better with age, and this one certainly does. I’ve worn it to death over the last six months and washed it plenty too. It has become buttery soft, the fit has molded to me, and the collar has developed a beautiful shape.

I’m particularly drawn to The Real McCoys’ Joe McCoy line, which is their heritage sportswear label inspired by 1960s casual wear. The brand does a great job of dividing its different styles across labels. Buco covers motorcycle gear, The Real McCoys handles reproductions, and Joe McCoy focuses on heritage sportswear. This shirt perfectly embodies that careful attention to vintage detail while remaining extremely wearable.

Bean Plus - London Stripe Oxford

I’ve written before about my love for Beams Plus. Visiting their stores in Japan gives you the full picture of the brand, much more than you get in the UK, where you only see snapshots of their range. In Japan, you can see the creation process and the wide variety of pieces they offer, including collaborations with other labels.

The London Stripe Button Down features stripes called London stripes, which are slightly wider than a traditional university stripe. It is a classic shirt with all the right details, from fit to fabric, and exemplifies Beams Plus’ careful attention to heritage-inspired design.

Jake’s - White Oxford

If you’re looking for a carefully made, well-crafted Oxford cloth button-down that includes all the key details and never misses, look no further than Jake Wigham. I’ve known Jake a little for a few years, and his range of made-to-order Oxford shirts comes from someone who is not only a master of his craft but also has a deep wealth of knowledge that clearly informs everything he does.

Drake’s - Oxford Cloth Button Down

I won’t lie, I really love Drake’s. Similar to how Ralph Lauren initially presented their clothes, Drake’s captures a sense of aspiration. You can see it in their photography and campaigns, which depict a lifestyle you want to step into, the nice meals, the wine bars, the moments that make you imagine yourself wearing the clothes.

Their Oxford cloth button downs are a staple of that approach. Made in their Somerset factory in England, these shirts feature a button down collar with brushed floating interlining and a box pleat, combining classic details with exceptional craftsmanship.

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So there is my short list of some of my favourite makers of the classic Oxford shirt out there today. As I mentioned, some I own, some I do not. This is by no means a complete list. The Oxford shirt is my t-shirt. It is my go-to for every day, and it works with just about any outfit. Simple, classic, understated, it works all year round, wherever and whenever.