Sweat it out!

Exploring the sartorial ease and my obsession with the classic Ivy staple, the sweatshirt.

It’s become an obsession of mine, yet another to add to the long list. But it’s for the best, trust me.

For many, a sweatshirt is just another piece of clothing they throw on every day and don’t give a second thought. In the age of fast fashion, the market is inundated with cheap designs made only for the purpose of a quick turnaround of money.

Sweatshirts are seen as an informal garment. You throw one on with sweatpants for an evening on the sofa, or if you’re a method actor, they serve their original purpose as athletic wear.

Because menswear has become more informal over the years, clothing from the past naturally looks a lot smarter. Therefore, if you wear a vintage or vintage-inspired sweat, you elevate your look.

When you find the right sweatshirt, you’ll fall in love. It’s a staple garment of the Ivy look as well as being a wardrobe essential.

The most common sweatshirts you’ll probably come across are the Loopback and reverse weave.

Loopback refers to a type of fabric construction where the backside of the fabric has loops, creating a soft and breathable texture. Loopback fabric is commonly used in sweatshirts for its moisture-wicking properties and enhanced airflow, making it ideal for sportswear.

Reverse weave construction involves knitting fabric horizontally rather than vertically, resulting in minimal shrinkage and maintaining the garment's shape over time. This construction technique is commonly used in high-quality sweatshirts, providing durability and longevity.

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Here’s one in my collection I can’t stop wearing by Uniform Bridge.

If you’ve not heard of them before, they are a Korean brand inspired by classic, vintage, outdoor, and military clothing.

I’ve always liked the bridge between Ivy and Military style, so this piece lends itself really well to both of those looks.

This is a piece based on a USNA (United States Naval Academy) sweatshirt. Along with the varsity typography and school crest, the garment has a really nice faded blue wash to it, giving it a real vintage look.

Here’s an example of how easy it is to style a piece like this. This outfit is made up of classics: a light jacket from Uniqlo reminiscent of a Barbour, a pair of wide-leg chinos, and Bass Weejun loafers.

This outfit is primarily composed of muted tones, which means it allows the sweatshirt's gorgeous colourway to take centre stage and be the focus of the outfit.

This is a great look for late winter into spring, as well as for autumn. You can layer underneath the sweatshirt with an Oxford shirt if you wish, or just a T-shirt if it’s slightly warmer.

Here’s another sweatshirt I’ve got by Uniform Bridge, based on a vintage US Coast Guard one.

Here’s a look I was really pleased with. Along with the sweatshirt, I’m wearing a vintage '60s London Fog Harrington Jacket, a John Simons shirt, Olderbest 1950s US Army Officer Chinos, GH Bass Weejuns, and an Uskees wool hat.

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Letterman Sweatshirts are an obvious Ivy Staple, they’re timeless, comfortable and smart all at the same time.

Originally worn by students of American colleges to identify their schools, J.Press do a brilliant range that spans all of the East Coast elite.

I’ve spoken about it before, and I’ll probably speak about it again, then sleep, and then mention it again, but I got mine when I visited J.Press in Manhattan.

The sweatshirt has a really authentic fit to it without being oversized; there’s plenty of room in it, and the cuffs and waistband keep the garment looking nice and fitted.

I’ve worn mine countless times. Here I am, wearing it with a JW Anderson X Uniqlo Windcheater from their Ivy-inspired drop last year.

I actually bought this while I was in New York too, from the store on 5th Avenue. Another way I styled it recently was with my All Blues Co. 60/40 Mountain Parka.

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South Korea comes through again with great offerings.

Here’s another excellent example of South Korea producing beautiful pieces of clothing. I got this one from The Archives, which used to be based in Leeds but now trades solely online.

This is the 23rd Flying Tigers Sweatshirt by Black PP.

Much like the RAF’s Eagle Squadrons who were up against the Luftwaffe during the Battle of Britain, the Flying Tigers were a squadron of American pilots who fought for China against Japan before the US officially entered World War Two.

This sweatshirt features some lovely details. It’s made of 100% loop-back cotton, featuring a ribbed neck and elasticated cuffs, hem, and completed with a screen-printed graphic.

The fit is slightly oversized, making it an excellent piece for layering. In the picture above, I’m wearing a Kamakura cord shirt underneath it with a Jump The Gun Charlie Jacket on top.

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Finally, to end on, if you’ve enjoyed reading this article, I highly recommend Lightning Archive’s Vintage Sweatshirt Edition.

It’s a 242-page book spanning a fascinating archive of vintage sweatshirts from 1920 to 1969. If only it were a catalogue!

As always, thanks for reading.

All the best,

Tom

Track of the blog: Herbie Hancock - Maiden Voyage