Strictly not for Rugby

The Rugby Jersey, the perfect transitional garment?

I have never had any intention of playing rugby. I know, big surprise. But I have always liked the jerseys.

The stripes, the hoops, the colours, the cloth – they’re a great addition that everyone should include in their wardrobe.

Sitting somewhere between a long-sleeve tee and a sweatshirt, they’re a great hybrid piece, perfect for transitional seasons, particularly spring.

I’ve got a couple in my wardrobe that have been getting plenty of wear these last few weeks, so I thought it fitting to dig deeper and take a look at the classic rugby jersey.

The rugby jersey's journey began in the 19th century as a practical garment to distinguish teams on the field.

Starting off in basic colours, which then evolved into different patterns as teams built their own identity, jerseys have become a regular item within the menswear realm, particularly within ivy and preppy styles.

Ivy style started when students of the East Coast US elite wanted to adopt a look that mirrored what was being worn by British aristocrats. However, this, combined with American clothing and mindsets, created a style unique to them.

Rugby, a sport traditionally played by private schools and universities, represents Britain’s very own elite. It’s a strange one; I’d never want to look like I’m coming from that ideology, but as with many British people dressing Ivy, I’m inspired by a look that was itself inspired by the very thing I don’t want to look like. Clothing is a strange thing indeed.

That’s why I often describe jazz as the original punk. The musicians who adopted Ivy style were dressing almost as a middle finger to the establishment while making music, and I’d like to think the rugby shirt is maybe doing the same thing. Too deep? Maybe. Either way, here are some ways to style the rugby jersey.

Go bold and style it like you would a tie. This surprisingly works well. What I mean is, pair it with items as you would a tie. If the pattern or colourway is similar to a striped repp tie, chances are it’ll probably go with the rest.

Above is a great example: Prince of Wales check trousers paired with a jersey that resembles a design typically found on a tie.

Layer with a blazer and cap. Imagine you’re a college student circa 1963; you’ve got history class at 1 and gym straight after with no time to change in between – wear it all at once.

It’s a great look, one I like to wear from time to time. Wearing a sports blazer ties it all together and adds another dimension. It’s a contemporary look with nods to the classics, perfect for spring and autumn, both transitional seasons. It’s layering but not too hardcore.

Adding a cap keeps this look a little less formal. Here’s a chance to really play around with the look: go for another colour that subtly complements the colours featured in the jersey. Keep the blazer in neutral earth tones, and finish off with a pair of jeans and brown desert boots or loafers.

Brown footwear usually works best with this look. It’s a more informal colour and complements the earth tones of your upper half.

It all works, and why shouldn’t it?

Take off the blazer, and it works just as well, giving you a great chance to show off the pattern and let the colours do the talking.

Rugby shirts are a great option for when you feel a little uninspired. They’re a single piece that features great designs. You can keep it really simple with a pair of jeans and your favourite shoes, and you’ve got a complete look.

The two Cs: chinos and chukkas. Understated classics that’ll never go away. They go with everything and, if you haven’t got the energy to think of what to wear, start with these and stick on a rugby jersey.

It shouldn’t work, but it does. A shirt and tie should go with a blazer, right? Well, not exactly. Try pairing them with a rugby jersey instead.

Experiment with it, and believe it or not, you can get it to work. The above picture is a good example. I think it’s the hat that does the job. It tones it down and keeps it informal.

Be brave, be bold, experiment, and surprise yourself.

Now you have an answer for what to wear when it’s not too hot, but not too cold. You know what I mean.

Thanks for reading,

Tom