Kamakura’s Vintage Ivy Collection

A Nod to the Past, with Craftsmanship for Today

I’ve always had a deep respect for Kamakura Shirts, not just for the quality and craftsmanship, but for their roots in Ivy League style, particularly in Japan. Their connection to VAN Jacket, the company that introduced Ivy style to Japan, is what first drew me to them. And when I saw that Kamakura had teamed up with Graham Marsh for their Vintage Ivy collection, I knew I had to take notice. As an expert in Ivy style and co-author of Black Ivy, which I often turn to for inspiration, Graham’s touch on this collection felt like the perfect pairing.

For me, this collaboration between Kamakura and Graham Marsh is a perfect example of how a brand can elevate itself by working with experts in their field. While many collaborations today focus on celebrity designs or limited-edition releases, Kamakura went deeper, allowing someone who truly understands the essence of Ivy style to help shape the collection. It’s a rare approach that makes their shirts stand out.

“Each Stitch Placed With The Greatest Care”

Kamakura’s philosophy, “Each stitch placed with the greatest care,” perfectly encapsulates the attention to detail and commitment to quality that has made the brand a standout. Founded in 1993 by Yoshio and Tamiko Sadasue, Kamakura has built a reputation for crafting shirts that marry American Ivy League style with Japanese craftsmanship. This heritage is especially evident in their Vintage Ivy collection, which blends classic Ivy style with a level of precision that you only find in Japan.

Kamakura’s roots trace back to VAN Jacket, a key player in introducing Ivy League fashion to Japan. This cultural crossover helped shape what would become the “Ametora” look—a Japanese take on American Ivy style.

The influence of Ivy style can be seen in every piece Kamakura creates, as they pay homage to the 1960s Ivy League look, while ensuring each shirt is meticulously crafted in Japan. As someone who has always gravitated toward Ivy style, Kamakura’s approach resonates with me, especially their understanding of how to mix tradition with modern design.

It was the words of VAN’s founder, Kensuke Ishizu that started it all.

“It was my job to establish a clothing company during Japan’s post-war recovery, and to teach Japanese people to dress in a manner that wouldn’t be dismissed in international company. After VAN went bankrupt, men’s fashion in Japan deteriorated significantly. No one has come forward to take over my vision.”

Yoshio Sadasue simply replied to him, “Then I will start a shirt store.”

Vintage Ivy Collection: A Nod to the Past with Modern Appeal

When Kamakura sent me two new shirts from their Vintage Ivy collection, I was beyond excited to add them to my already growing collection. Among others, I already had pieces like the Miles Davis green shirt and the Vintage Ivy popover shirt, which I absolutely loved. So when I received the corduroy Oxford and denim Oxford shirts, I couldn’t wait to see how they would fit into my wardrobe.

Let’s start with the corduroy Oxford shirt. Corduroy is one of my favourite fabrics, and this off-white shirt is an instant classic. It’s not your standard Oxford cloth button-down. The subtle texture of the corduroy gives it a more refined feel, making it stand out without being too bold. The premium fabric is soft yet durable, and its versatility means it works all year round—perfect for autumn and winter layering, or as a standalone piece in the spring. The shirt’s slightly shorter length also makes it great worn untucked, giving it a relaxed yet stylish vibe. It pairs beautifully with chinos, jeans, or trousers, offering endless styling possibilities.

The denim Oxford shirt is another standout piece. Denim has always been synonymous with American style, and Kamakura’s take on it is exactly what you’d expect from a brand that blends American influence with Japanese craftsmanship. The fabric, which has been specially treated for a lived-in look, is soft yet substantial. The unstructured Ivy collar adds a touch of casual sophistication, and as anyone who’s worked with denim knows, it only gets better with age. I’ve always loved the versatility of denim shirts, and this one is no exception. It can be dressed up with a tie (a look I personally enjoy experimenting with) or worn casually with jeans or chinos. You can even pair it with a suit to add a bit of contrast and personality.

Timeless Staples for Modern Wardrobes

Both of these shirts are timeless, which is what I look for in my wardrobe. I’m a firm believer that your outfit should have a foundation built on staples that will never go out of style. Whether it’s a denim shirt or a corduroy shirt, these pieces have the kind of versatility that lets you adapt them to any situation. With Kamakura’s Vintage Ivy collection, these shirts serve as a perfect starting point for building a modern, stylish look.

Take the denim shirt, for example. It’s the kind of shirt that you can play with. I’ve often paired denim shirts with a tie—a combination that may seem unconventional, but it works brilliantly. It’s a way to make a classic fabric feel a bit more refined, without losing its casual charm. A denim shirt can be dressed up or down, making it a perfect addition to any wardrobe. It’s also a great base layer under a suit, giving you a bit of edge while still maintaining a level of sophistication.

The corduroy Oxford shirt also adds something special to the mix. It’s a little different from your typical white shirt, but it’s not too bold. It’s just enough to show you know your stuff when it comes to menswear. And it has that great talking point quality—true menswear enthusiasts will appreciate the craftsmanship, but even those outside the circle will still see that it’s a shirt with character and style.

Ivy Style and Its Enduring Influence

For me, Ivy style is not just a fashion choice—it’s a philosophy. I’ve always believed that dressing well doesn’t just improve how you look; it boosts your confidence and mood. It’s a mindset that transcends trends, and the Ivy look is the perfect example. As Graham Marsh and Jason Jules explored in their book Black Ivy, Ivy style was never intended for the working-class Black musicians who adopted it in the 1950s and 60s. Yet, these musicians made it their own, showing the world that self-confidence and a vision for your best self can defy societal expectations. Ivy style isn’t just about following trends; it’s about making something your own, regardless of who you are or where you come from.

In today’s world, it’s easy to fall into the trap of wearing what everyone else is wearing. But, to me, Ivy style is about standing out in a subtle yet powerful way. It’s about dressing in a way that makes you feel good and elevates your mood, and when you wear a piece that’s been beautifully crafted, like Kamakura’s shirts, it just takes it to the next level.

Why Kamakura’s Vintage Ivy Collection Works for Everyone

Kamakura’s Vintage Ivy Collection is one that works for everyone, whether you’re an Ivy League enthusiast or just someone looking for beautifully crafted, timeless pieces. The “Vintage Ivy” label doesn’t mean you have to be a die-hard Ivy fan to wear it—it simply reflects the inspiration behind the designs that have influenced menswear across the world. Ivy style isn’t just for college students or preppy types; it’s about everyone who appreciates the details, the craftsmanship, and the versatility that comes with a well-made shirt. And Kamakura’s Vintage Ivy collection has something for everyone—each piece ready to elevate your wardrobe.

Finally, I want to say a huge thank you to the good people at Kamakura for sending me these shirts and for helping bring this blog together. Their dedication to quality and craftsmanship is truly something special, and I’m excited to see how their Vintage Ivy collection continues to evolve.