Getting Lumbered
How I Designed My Ideal Lumberjack Shirt
A great shirt should be more than just something to wear—it should tell a story, blending style, function, and a little bit of heritage.
When Proper Cloth first reached out about collaborating, I’ll admit I wasn’t entirely familiar with them. I had my doubts about made-to-order shirts at first, but after learning more and getting to know their process, I was really excited to jump in. I’ve now collaborated with them on six different products—five shirts and one piece of knitwear—and I’ve been more than pleased with the results. Out of the five shirts, this one, my Lumberjack shirt, is particularly exciting to me. Using Proper Cloth’s Japanese Low Ombre Twist fabric, I wanted to create a shirt that worked as a hybrid—something that could function as both a shirt and an overshirt.
I made sure to adjust the length of the shirt to make it functional for layering, but also added a rounded hem so it could be tucked in if needed. Whether worn on its own or over another shirt, it’s a versatile, rugged piece with a twist of Ivy.
You’ll know by now I’ve always been fascinated by rugged Ivy style. I’ve written about its origins and how it celebrates the blend of American workwear and Japanese craftsmanship numerous times. This shirt is no exception. With details like the Soft Ivy Button Down Collar and Reverse Pleat Pockets, it’s an embodiment of that rugged Ivy aesthetic. The collar’s subtle roll keeps the Ivy roots intact, while the minimal design of the pockets brings in vintage, practical style.
The Soft Wide Front Placket adds a bold but understated centreline, balancing the bold plaid with simplicity. I also opted for Soft One-Button Cuffs and a One-Piece Yoke, making sure it’s both streamlined and functional. The Cream Horn Buttons are the final touch that ties everything together, adding an organic tactile feel to the design.
Cutting to the Core
When it comes to fabric, I knew I wanted something that would speak to both durability and comfort. That’s when I came across Proper Cloth’s Japanese Low Ombre Twist fabric. Soft to the touch yet incredibly durable, it’s the perfect material for a rugged yet refined shirt. What makes this fabric even more special is its ability to keep you warm when needed but still feel breathable during milder days. Whether you wear it as a shirt on its own or as an overshirt, it’s incredibly versatile.
The Reverse Pleat Pockets were one of my favourite design choices. They’re practical, of course, but they also give a nod to vintage shirt styles with a utilitarian edge. There are plenty of other design elements to explore, such as the option to turn the shirt into a western-style shirt, a look I absolutely love. It’s this customization that makes working with Proper Cloth so exciting—you can design a shirt that fits exactly how you want, from slim to loose, without the hefty price tag that comes with going fully bespoke.
Styling the Shirt
When it comes to styling, this shirt works effortlessly into any wardrobe. Plaid shirts, especially lumberjack styles, are classics for a reason. This shirt is no exception—it’ll pair well with almost anything you already own. My advice? Go full lumberjack. Think about walking into the woods looking for trees that need tending to (just don’t start chopping any down unless you happen to be a lumberjack, of course). It's one of those looks that’s timeless and rugged, but with enough polish to wear out to a casual dinner or even a relaxed office.
Deep Roots
The lumberjack shirt has deep roots in American workwear history. First popularized in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, these plaid shirts were designed for loggers, prized for their warmth and durability in harsh environments. Over time, the lumberjack shirt made its way into fashion, especially within the context of Americana and outdoor styles.
Its journey didn’t stop in North America, though. After World War II, the lumberjack shirt found its way into Japan’s fashion scene, particularly through the lens of Ametora, or "American Traditional" style. This cultural exchange between American workwear and Japanese Ivy League influences gave rise to a new kind of hybrid style that’s become iconic. Rugged Ivy, as I’ve often discussed, is a direct product of this blend—a fusion of utility, durability, and Ivy League refinement. My shirt is a nod to that rich heritage.
Collaborating with Proper Cloth has been a fantastic experience. What initially seemed like a leap of faith turned into a partnership I'm genuinely proud of. This Lumberjack shirt is a perfect example of blending rugged workwear with Ivy League sophistication, and I’m thrilled with how it turned out. The versatility of the fabric, along with the thoughtful details I included, makes this shirt a piece that can be worn in so many different ways—whether it's as a standalone shirt or layered as an overshirt.
If you're looking to create a piece that fits your style perfectly, Proper Cloth offers a wide range of customization options, allowing you to design something that’s uniquely yours. Don't forget to use my discount code TOMHOY10 for 10% off your first order.
Shop my curated collection or create your own shirt at Proper Cloth.
Great photos! Really sets the tone and style of the Lumberjack Shirt.