Boy do I love the city. I come from a long line of East-End Londoners, accept I was born in rural Lincolnshire.
Whenever I heard stories of the city from my grandparents, I always dreamed of living there.
I've lived in Manchester for 10 years now, and it’s safe to say I feel at home in the city.
As soon as I moved here, I felt the pace of my life change—not anything to worry about like my heart rate, but the amount I was consuming culturally all at once. It was miles apart from the flat, serene landscapes of Lincolnshire, and I loved it and still do!
There’s lots to do and lots going on, but one thing that’s always fascinated me about city living is the blend of styles and how they influence each other.
From vintage shops to high-end designer stores, they all give nods to each other and keep an eye on what the others are doing.
In terms of Ivy, once the style set sail across the Pacific and landed in Japan, it was no longer just a style for America’s East Coast elite. The Japanese developed it further and moulded it into their own culture. The term “City Boy” was born.
City Boy or amekaji style draws inspiration from American collegiate clothing. The term "amekaji" itself is a combination of "American" and "kaji," which is short for "casual."
The style often leans more towards the “preppy” side of American fashion, showcasing a more colourful, relaxed, and less classic way of dressing. Nevertheless, it all stems from classic American clothing.
I don’t want to start categorising clothing too much; I think that causes its own limitations and can have a bit of a “gatekeeper” mindset. It’s important to dress the way you want and keep a style alive, which is exactly what City Boy style is all about.
In the picture above, you can immediately see that there are elements of Ivy within this look. It has the foundations of the original style but is adapted for someone living in the city in 2024.
The overhead smock, once a campus staple for students rushing between classes and needing to keep their books and best button-downs dry, is now adapted for quick visits to the local convenience store to pick up snacks and drinks.
This is how I dress most days. There are some obvious classic elements within this look, such as the sport jacket, button-down shirt, sweatshirt, jeans, and tie, but with the added addition of a pair of Paraboot Michaels.
The Paraboot Michael has become synonymous with Ivy style, even though its roots don’t originally lie with the look. Part of the City Boy aesthetic and “hard Ivy” style I’ve mentioned in previous blogs have introduced items of clothing that enhance the style and adapt it to different environments.
The Paraboot, a classic French shoe, is a great choice for the city. It’s waterproof, hard-wearing, and will last you for years.
Speaking of footwear, another brand that has found its way into Ivy due to the City Boy look is New Balance.
Founded in 1906 by William J. Riley in Boston, Massachusetts, the company originally focused on arch supports and other shoe accessories to improve shoe fit. In the 1960s, New Balance shifted to manufacturing running shoes, releasing the Trackster, the first running shoe available in multiple widths.
Who knew you could make running trainers look so smart?
This is a great look. This shot has been styled by END, featuring a classic staple, the Shetland wool sweater, adapted to modern-day life with a pair of New Balance sneakers.
New Balance fits perfectly within the realm of Ivy; they’re trainers crafted for sport but worn for comfort. Sportswear has always been incorporated into the Ivy look to achieve comfort and style beyond their initial purpose.
It's interesting and not surprising just how much Ivy has influenced mainstream style. City Boy style spans a spectrum from heritage-informed to fast fashion. What's the reason? I guess it's one of the smarter looks out there today.
Designers are seeking alternatives to suiting because fewer people are wearing them to the office. Collegiate style incorporates classics, making it an easy sell with garments you'll never look out of place in.
Aime Leon Dore is one of the major players in high-end Ivy-inspired style. Founded and based in Queens, New York, their styling is often the epitome of “City Boy”.
Something I haven't touched on yet but definitely deserves a mention is POPEYE, the "magazine for city boys."
Based in Tokyo, POPEYE serves as a fantastic guide to menswear and is responsible for coining the “city boy” name.
In addition to guiding you through your sartorial choices, POPEYE issues focus on city guides, offering tips on where and when to wear the clothes it features. Clever stuff indeed.
Boat shoes are a great example of how City Boy style has adapted a piece originally intended for a specific purpose into urban wear—a true evolution of menswear.
Traditionally made with a rubber sole and using nubuck for quick drying on deck, the addition of a thicker, treaded sole has transformed these shoes for day-to-day city striding, offering the best of both worlds. Now you can walk even longer in puddles!
It's no surprise that most of the examples I've mentioned here are items of footwear. With footwear, you can see a direct correlation between development and evolution. And that's what City Boy style is all about.
The Japanese certainly know a thing or two about keeping style alive. If you haven't already, I highly recommend reading "Ametora."
“City boy”, a tale where Ivy meets evolution.
Thanks for reading,
Tom